Log Cabin Installation Hints, Tips and Essentials
It is imperative that the foundation is flat, level and of sufficient size.
(*** It is important to note that any deviation in the cabin foundation will transfer to the log cabin and will affect the solidity of the floor, the smooth operation of the doors and windows, the alignment of locking mechanisms, place undue strain on the cabin corner connections and also create an uneven level of the wall / gable connection.***)
Product layout preparation
It is recommended that once the cabin joists have been positioned on the foundation, the wall elements are poisoned adjacent to area they will be installed and stacked in reverse order as they will be needed. This will ensure that limited viewing of the wall plans takes place and windows etc will be installed at the correct height. Please keep an eye out to ensure that walls with storm rods must have pre-drilled holes at the end of each log.
(*** A little time spent on the product layout now will save huge amounts of time and limits the chance of error when construction takes place. This also confirms you have everything you need to complete the shell***)
Ensure the foundation beams are centred correctly as per manufacturer plans. (Should you wish to use a DPC, please install above and below the foundation joists) Starting with the half logs, lay the 1st row of wall logs ensuring the cabin joists at each end are set slightly inwards to allow a drip edge to form by the grooves under the log. Pre-drill and screw the corners. Once 3 or 4 logs high, it is imperative you measure the diagonals. This is the only way to ensure the building is fully square.
(***Failure to do this will create ill fitting floor boards, roof bards and fascias***)
Ensure the tongues and grooves of the logs are free from debris, and that the knocking block supplied is used to protect the tongues. Once the gable and roof purlins are installed please ensure they are fixed into position.
Please insert the storm rods, tighten all fixings and cut away any excess rod material.
(***If this is left too long, when the building settles it will push up and push through the roof***)
Floor and Roof Boards
Ensure that a 10mm expansion gap is left at the start and at the end. It is imperative that each floor and roof board is not butted up too close to the next board and must be fixed with 2 fixings per board per joist.
(***Before applying the shingles, ensure that the eaves fascia is installed to give the full area required to be covered***)
Please follow the build guide as to how to start and finish your tiling. It is imperative that you nail the shingles on in the location shown in the below image. This ensures that it not only holds the shingle you are on, but also that of the one directly underneath. Each shingle will the end up with a double row of nails holding it down.
Door and Window Fascia
It is imperative that any door and window fascia is fixed onto the frames only and not into any logs.
(*** Any nails penetrating the logs will stop the natural settling process and create gaps between wall logs***)
Settling and Fixtures
A typical log cabin can expand and contract up to 50 mm across the 4 seasons. It is therefore imperative that nothing is fixed to restrict this movement. Electrical conduit is the most common item to cause issues. This needs to be installed to allow for this movement i.e. expandable joints and surplus cable or elongated fixing holes to allow the conduit to move with the walls.
Treatment & Sealant
Treatment should take place as soon after installation as possible. Treatment must be of a micro-porous nature to allow the timber to protect and breath. Once fully coated and dried, silicone sealant must be applied from eaves to foundation in the external corners to bring the wind proof corner connection joints to weather resistant.